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BLomh^Book 




HENRY DISSTON & SONS,inc 




Commercial Trees 




"Real" Trees 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



An illustrated statement of tested methods 

of pruning and a warning against the 

mistakes so commonly made. 




Prepared for 

HENRY DISSTON & SONS, Inc. 

By ROLAND B. OILMAN 



Published and Copyrighted by 

Henry Disston k Sons, Inc. 

Philadelphla, U. S. A. 
1921 



In Appreciation ^^ 



The need for a book that would tell the S/tory of pruning in 
the most universal of all languages, that of pictures, prompted 
the development of that plan in the following pages. With this 
end in view, the writer has endeavored to secure the best photo- 
graphs showing the representative good and bad pruning from 
various sections of the United States. When these were secured, 
the text was built around them. 

No attempt has been made to discuss relative merits of the 
various systems of pruning used in commercial orchards and 
vineyards, the aim being to illustrate those methods found to 
be generally adapted to the variety and section under discus- 
sion, and call attention to and warn against mistakes so com- 
monly made in this line of work. 

"The Pruning Book" is not intended as a complete work on 
pruning. 

The writer wishes to express the thanks and appreciation of 
both the Company and himself to those who so generously 
helped by furnishing the prints and cuts so necessary to success, 
as follows: 

The United States Department of Agriculture, Figs. 3 to 12, 26 to 29, 
31-B, 32, 37 to 42, 43-A, 44 to 47, 50, 58-A and B, 60, 61-C, 62 and 78-A. 

Bureau of Plant Industry, United States Department of Agriculture. 
Figs. 65, 66, 67-B and C, 69, 72, 73, 76, 83 and 84. 

The Forest Service, United States Department of Agriculture, Figs. 1, 
13 to 24, 61-A and B and 64-A. 

The Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station, Figs. 36 and 43-B and C. 

The Nebraska Agricultural Experiment Station, Figs. 51, 68, 74 and 75. 

The North Carolina Agricultural Experiment Station, Figs. 52, 55 and 57. 

The West Virginia Agricultural Experiment Station, Figs. 53, 54, 58-C 
and 59. 

The Iowa Agricultural Experiment Station, Figs. 48 and 49. 

The Idaho Agricultural Experiment Station, Figs. 30, 34 and 35. 

The Country Gentleman, Figs. 70, 71, 77, 78-B, 79, 80, 82-B and 85. 

Mr. Harvey W. Porch, Figs. 56, 63, 67-A, 81 and 82-A. 

Mr. John T. Roberts, Figs. 2 and 86-C. 

Mr. L. Willard Minch, Fig. 64-B. 

A large portion of thanks is also expressed for the assistance 
given through information and suggestions by the various 
State Agricultural Experiment Stations, and for the suggestions 
of Mr. Frank K. Phillips. 

APR 26 1921 

0)C!.A614209 



<i\ ': 



CONTENTS 

HISTORY OF PRUNING 5 

GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF PRUNING 9 

Tree Structure 9 

Decay: Cause and Treatment 9-11 

Cavities: How to Excavate and Fill 11-13 

Removal of Limbs 11 

Protection of Wounds to Prevent Decay 21 

FOREST AND SHADE TREE PRUNING 23-27 

CATALPA TREE PRUNING 26 and 91 

NUT TREE PRUNING 31 

PLANTING OF TREES 32 

FRUIT TREES 34 

Apple Tree Pruning ,... . 34-58 

Summer Pruning of Apples 43 

Renovating Old Orchards 48 

Guards for Trees 52 

Disease 54 

Grafting 55 

Top-working 58 

Peach Tree Pruning 59-69 

Fruit Buds 59 

Heading Peach Trees 66 

Plum Tree Pruning .■ . 70 

Apricot Tree Pruning 71 

Cherry Tree Pruning 71 

Pear Tree Pruning 71 

SMALL FRUIT PRUNING 73 

Raspberry 73 

Dewberry 77 

Blackberry 80 

Currant 80 

Gooseberry 81 

GRAPE PRUNING 81 

VINE PRUNING 86 

Wisteria Pruned for Blooming 86 

SHRUBS 87 

PRIVET HEDGES 91 

ROSE PRUNING 92 

TOOLS USED IN PRUNING 9^ 

Pruning Saws 98-99 

Pruning Hooks 98-99 

Pruning Shears , , . , , , , 105 



Foreword 



This "Pruning Book" answers most of the everyday- 
questions regarding pruning and was planned to cover as 
broad a field as possible in a book of its size. It is hoped 
that the reader will be so interested in the proper care of 
his trees and shrubs that additional information will be 
desired. A vast quantity of such information is avail- 
able, much of which is contained in the free publications 
of the United States Department of Agriculture and of 
the various State Agricultural Experiment Stations. 

Those desiring information on pruning should address 
the United States Department of Agriculture, Bureau 
of Publications, Washington, D. C, asking for available 
information on the subject in question. 

At times, detailed information regarding peculiar local 
conditions is best obtained from the Agricultural Experi- 
ment Station of the State in which such conditions exist. 

The State Experiment Stations are generally in a 
position to give advice as to market requirements, proper 
spraying, cultivation, and other local factors which 
affect the pruning work. 

Many books have been published on the subject. 
The best known are possibly "Bailey's Pruning Book," 
by Prof. L. H. Bailey, Macmillan Co., New York City; 
"Principles and Practice of Pruning," by M. G. Kains, 
Orange Judd, New York City, and "Citrus Fruits," by 
J. E. Coit, Macmillan Co. 



History and Development 
of Pruning 

THE "Modern Horticulturists" are apt to look upon our 
knowledge of the principles of pruning as being part of 
a very modern system of fruit growing. The surprising 
fact is that vineyards were spoken of in Bible writings about 
2300 B. C, "Noah began to be a husbandman and planted a 
vineyard." Gen. 9: 20. Mention is also made of the dressing 
of vines and trees by Varro, who wrote a book on agriculture 
about the year 600 of the Roman Era. He quotes more ancient 
writers, criticising some for not advocating the regular pruning 
of the olive tree. He also testifies against that ancient Eastern 
proverb: "Two things improve with beating — women and olive 
trees." He says that the custom of beating olive trees to remove 



experience of 4S. yeercs labbiir, and now the fccond time concCicdind 
much enlarged, by fVilUam LAwfori, 

Whcrcunro isncwly added the Arc of propagaring Plants,v\jth thctruc ordering 

ofaUmaincr ofFmts^ tlxh- gathering, cariymghomc, andfrcfcruat'm. 




Printed at Lcjidon by /. H. for R o g e r I a c k so n, and arc to be ff Id it J.j$ 
ihop neere Fleet- ftrcct Conduic 1 6 a 5. 

Figure 3 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



the fruit destroyed many of the young shoots and fruit buds, 
reducing the next crop. 

The writers of the seventeenth century quoted the Bible, 
Ovid, Virgil, and other ancient authors profusely. These men 
thought things through and arrived at conclusions surprisingly 
like those we hold to be true today. Their knowledge of plant 
disease and insects was not great, owing to the lack of proper 
scientific instruments needed in their study. 

William Lawson, an English gardener, wrote a book on the 
"Ordering of all manner of fruits." (Fig. 3.) The following 
extract gives his idea of how a standard fruit tree should be 
pruned, and why: 

"A fruit tree so standing, that there need none other end of dressing 
but fruit (not ornaments for walks, nor delight to such as would please their 
eye only, and yet the best form cannot but both adorn and delight), must 
be parted from within two foot (or there abouts) of the earth, so high to 
give liberty to dresse his root and no higher, for drinking up the sap that 
should feed his fruit, for the boale will be first, and best served and fed, 
because he is next the root, and of greatest waxe and substance, and that 
makes him longest of life, unto two, three, or foure armes, as your stocke 
or graffes yeeld twigs, and every arme into two or more branches, and every 
branch into his severall cyons. Still spreading by equal degrees, so that his 
lowest spray be hardly without the reach of a mans hand and his highest 
be not 2 yards higher, rarely (especially in the middest) that no one twig 
touch his fellow. Let him spread as far as he list without any master- 
bough, or top equally. And when any bough doth grow sadder and fall 
lower, than his fellows (as they will with weight of fruit) ease him the next 
spring of his superfluous twigs, and he will rise: when any bough or spray 
shall amount above the rest, either snub his top with a nip betwixt your 
finger and your thumb, or with a sharp knife, and take him clean away, 
and so you may use any cyon you would reform, and as your tree shall 
grow in stature and strength, so let him rise with his tops, but equally, and 
in bredth also, and follow him upward with lopping his under growth and 
water-boughs, keeping the same distance of two yards but not above three 
in any wise, betwixt the lowest and highest twigs. 

"1. Thus shall you have well liking, cleane skinde, beautifuU, great and 
long-lasting trees. 

"2. Thus shall your tree grow low, and safe from winds, for his top will 
be great, broad and weighty. 

"3. Thus growing broad, shall your trees beare much fruit (I dare say) 
one as much as sixe of your common trees, and good without shadowing, 
drooping and fretting: for his boughs, branches and twigs shall be many, 
and those are they (not the boale) which beare the fruit. 

"4. Thus shall your boale being little (not small but low) by reason of his 
shortness take little, and yield much sap to the fruit. 

"5. Thus your trees by reason of strength in time of setting shall put 
forth more blossoms, and more fruit, being free from taints, for strength is a 
great help to bring forth much and safely, whereas weakness fails in setting 
tho the season be calme." 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



Ghap. II. ^nOnhard. Dri^mg, 37 

The perfcfl forme of a Fruir tt<c. 




Htfan^ttjinUcairce cannot totube bjougljtto tl)i0 fo;nic 
Expert eredi Roberto. ^ can fl)cto Diucts of t^cm tnOcc ttoentg 

veare0ofa«c» ^ . . , . 

C^e fitteft time ef t^e fl!9oottc fo> pjopnwg td as of grafting. Time 
to^n t^c fap i0 rcaDp to flirre ( notpjousip fiKrring ) ano fo to bcft for 
f ottct ttje iBouno, anD of tijc pcrrc, a mont^ bcfojc ( oj at Icaft proi- 
tobcn) vougcaffe. 2D?eire Scares, aipncobs, ^Searijcj, Ctjc iiing. 
rie«,antt:i2ullps fooncr. ^no old trees befojcpoung plants, 
von map ii;t<reat an? time bcttoirt ilcafe ano iLcafc. 0na 
5ote, tl)at toljere pou tahe anp tt)inc aUjav» tije fap tljc next funv 
iwr totll be putting: be furct^ercfojcUjljen teputs a buo \xi 
anp place tot)c«pou\x30ulo not tjauc l)im,rub it offtuitl} pour 

finget> 

janfi&eere pcu matt remember t!)t eommon l)omelp |5jo* Dreifc 
nerbe: Soone crookes the tree that good Camrcll mull bee. bctimc, 
iBeginne betiwe Uiit^ trees, ana Doe to!)at pou lift : but if 
vou let ttjemgrotD great &no fiubbo^ne, pon muS boe as tf)e 
trees lift* C^eptoill not beno but b;eat(e,no} be Ujound tmtt>« 
ontsanger.a fmallbjancl) mill become aboug^, and a boug^ 
anarmetnbigittffe.^ Wm if ?o« cnt^j^istDounotoiUfe* 
iter, aoo i^rt^, toitl^ottt goO s^til, veconec : tt)erefo}ty ob(la 

Figure 4 

William Lawson says: "Imagine that the paper makes but 
one side of the tree to appeare, the whole round compasse will 
give leave for many more armes, boughs, branches and cyons. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



Lawson had the same idea with regard to the shape and 
general structure of the tree that is held by many present-day 
orchardists. 

He makes a mistake when he says that "the boale will be 
fii'st and best served and fed because he is next the root." 
Modern research has shown us that the sap as it comes from 
the roots is in a crude form and must pass through the sap 
wood of the trunk and branches to the leaves where it is digested, 
after which it is carried through the inner bark to the growing 
twigs, fruit, branches or roots as needed. (See Fig. 5- A, 
page 10.) Modern practice seems to disagree with his advice 
to remove the lower limbs. Compare Fig. 42-A, page 52, where 
this has been done, with Fig. 32-B, page 41, and you can readily 
see the value of the lower limbs, provided they get air and light. 

Samuel Hartlib, in 1653 A. D., wrote: "A designe for plentie 
by a universal planting of fruit trees." He suggests legislation 
intended to compel land owners and overseers to plant and care 
for fruit trees. 

R. A. Austin in the same year gives us "Arguments of the 
dignity of fruit trees and the art of planting." This book is 
largely quotations from ancient writers, and gives long lists of 
kings and great men who were interested in fruit culture. Some 
of these lived in ancient Babylon and China. 

The knowledge of these old-time writers does not seem to 
have been made use of by the larger part of the farmers and 
fruit growers. 

The writers many times give the general lack of knowledge 
and good practice as their reason for writing the book. These 
efforts of the early authors were largely annulled by the lack of 
general education of the public and the- relatively high cost of 
the printed book. 

The development of transportation and markets during the 
last half century has resulted in a vast amount of research and 
experimenting in connection with fruit growing. In spite of 
this, very little has been added to our knowledge of the prin- 
ciples of pruning. The details of practice have been varied to 
suit the peculiar demands of climate, soil, and variety of fruit, 
and the mystery which surrounded plant growth and diseases 
has been somewhat clarified. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



General Principles 

The work of tree pruning may be divided into two general 
classes: that of training and that of repair or tree surgery. 

In all of this work a few fundamental principles must be 
observed if good results are to be realized. There are many 
persons who feel that great mystery surrounds the work of the 
"tree doctor" or specialist in this work. There are some few 
unprincipled meA who encourage this idea. The truth is that 
any person may undertake this work who has a general knowl- 
edge of the tree's structure and growth , of how insects and dis- 
ease affect the tree; and who can use the shears, saw, mallet, 
gouge, and brush with patience and care. 

A cross section of a tree trunk is shown in Fig. 5-A, page 10. 
The dark portion (a) is the heart wood, and is practically dead tis- 
sue. Its chief value to the tree is to give rigidity to the trunk and 
branches. The lighter section (b) next to the bark is the sap 
wood. Through the minute sap tubes of this portion of the tree 
the crude sap passes from the fine feeding roots to the leaves 
and twigs. There the tree uses it to manufacture food. The 
action of sunlight is necessary to this digestive process and 
explains why trees strive to reach the sunlight when shaded, 
and dwindle and die when they fail. When thus digested, the 
food is carried from the leaves in solution through tubes in the 
inner bark (d) to those parts of the tree where it is needed for 
growth, or to be stored for future use. The food is transformed 
in the cambium (c) to wood or bark tissue. No growth takes 
place in the tree except in the cambium, the inner bark, the 
tips of the twigs and roots, and the leaves. The oldest bark is 
on the surface of the trunk and limbs, and usually consists of 
dead corky tissues (e). 

Plant diseases and organisms which cause decay seldom gain 
entrance to the wood tissues if the bark and cambium remain 
uninjured. Where such injury takes place some substitute 
should be provided, such as lead paint, tar, or asphalt. Where 
the bark becomes broken, or a limb is removed, exposing the 
heart, or the sap wood, there is an opportunity for disease and 
decay to gain a foothold. 

Fig. 5-B, page 10, shows a scar left by the removal of a 
large limb. Notice that the scar is healing more rapidly at the" 
sides than at the top or bottom. No provision has been made 
in this case for the protection of the heart and sap wood against 
decay. The lack of protection has also permitted the heart 
wood to become dry and to crack, or check. 



10 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure 5 

Fig. 5-C is a scar about three-fourths healed over. 

Fig. 5-D shows decay resulting from an axe cut or blaze. 
The heart is nearly all destroyed, though the wound is almost 
healed over. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 11 

The line indicates the proper shape of the cavity if this had 
been excavated. 

The scar in Fig. 5-E is entirely healed over. If decay has 
commenced, it will continue, even though the wound is healed. 

Fig. 5-F shows a very small opening into a large area of decay; 
only a thin shell of sound wood remains. Many times, there 
are very large cavities that escape detection until a storm 
breaks a limb, or blows the tree down, exposing the decay. 
The treating of such cavities is seldom practical, except where 
expense is not a factor. The decay shown in Fig. 5-D and 5-F 
could have been prevented if the injuries had received proper 
treatment in the first place. The old adage: an ounce of pre- 
vention is worth a pound of cure, is doubly true in the case of 
pruning and tree surgery. Careful work is always well repaid 
in the results obtained. The use of poor or dull tools will 
greatly handicap the workman, not only delaying the work, 
but causing very poor results. 

Climbing spurs and double-edged saws should never be 
used, since they cause a great amount of unnecessary damage. 

When it is necessary to remove a limb of any kind, the 
workman should never hesitate to do all the work needed to 
make a complete job. Neglect of any kind will exact full toll, 
both in trouble and expense, in the future. The fact must 
never be lost sight of that the removal of a limb of any size 
exposes the wood tissue to infection until the wound is covered 
again by paint or new growth. Should a limb be permitted to 
split, as shown in Fig. 6-A, page 12, the resulting crack will 
^afford an excellent breeding place for rot-producing fungi, and, 
even though protected by paint, the wound will be much longer 
in healing than would be the case were the work properly 
done. 

The proper method of removing large limbs is one item that 
should be thoroughly understood before much pruning work is 
undertaken. 

One should go very slowly in making the decision to cut 
large limbs, since replacement is usually impossible, even after 
many years. Also, the large wound resulting will require a long 
time to heal. The workman must realize that the cut surface 
must be protected against decay for a long period where the 
wound is large. One method of protecting a large cut would be 
to cover it with tin to within one-half inch of the edge of the 
cut surface. The tin must be in one piece, or if more than one 
piece is required, the joint should be soldered. After smoothing 
the cut surface and giving the usual treatment of disinfectant, 



12 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




FiGtmE 6 



shellac, and tar or paint, the tin should be tacked on so that the 
edges are tight against the surface. The tin should be tarred 
or painted on both sides. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 13 

Fig. 6-A, page 12, is a heavy limb improperly cut, allowing it to 
strip as it falls. The saw-cut in the under side of the limb, shown 
in Fig. 6-B, is the first step in the proper removal of a large limb. 
This is to prevent stripping when the limb falls. The second 
cut is made just beyond the first and from the top, as in Fig. 6-C. 
The third cut is shown in Fig. 6-D, and should always be made 
close to and parallel with the trunk or main limb. This will 
leave an oval scar, as shown in Fig. 6-E, which also shows how 
the scar is dressed smooth with a gouge or chisel. 

Fig. 6-F shows the reason why stubs should not be left. 

The bark of these stubs died, mainly as a result of removing 
all the food-producing organs above. Decay has entered the 
trunk from these stubs. 

Fig. 7-A, page 14, shows cavities in two trees excavated 
through several openings. The scars would heal better if the 
openings were oval and pointed at top and bottom. 

A bad case of neglected horse bite is shown in Fig. 7-B. 
Another view is given in Fig. 7-C. Note how the decay has 
affected the roots. It is possible, though hardly practicable, 
owing to the great expense, to try to save a tree in this condition. 

The treatment of cavities can be regarded as comprising 
three essential operations: (a) removing all diseased and de- 
cayed matter, (b) sterilizing and waterproofing all cut surfaces, 
and (c) filling the cavity in a manner that will favor rapid heal- 
ing and exclude all rot-producing organisms. 

Fig. 8- A, page 15, is a cross section of a young tree trunk, 
showing how the new wood and bark grow into an unfilled cavity 
from the margin. If the original injury had been given proper 
treatment the trunk would now be sound and the scar entirely 
healed over. The line indicates the amount of excavating 
needed before filling the cavity. 

Fig. 8-B shows the cross section of a cavity braced with a bolt 
and with nails placed to hold cement filling. The cross section 
in Fig. 8-C shows the manner of using two bolts in a long, deep 
cavity. Fig. 8-D gives the proper method of countersinking 
the oval washer on the bolt. If round washers are used, the 
countersunk area should be pointed at the top and bottom to 
facilitate healing. Fig. 8-E shows a cross section of the tree 
shown in Fig. 8-B after filling with cement. The surface of the , 
cement conforms with the general shape of the woody portion 
of the trunk and does not extend beyond the cambium. 

Cavities less than two feet long do not ordinarily need bolt- 
ing. If the cavity is very long, the bolts should be placed 



14 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




FiGUKE 7 

about every two feet. All split cavities and crotches must be 
securely bolted and protected after all diseased wood is re- 
moved. 

The best material to use on the edges of the sap wood and 
bark is shellac. Creosote appears to be one of the best materials 
to use as a sterilizer on all cut surfaces, except the cambium and 
bark. This should be followed with asphalt or tar. The treat- 
ment of all cut surfaces to prevent decay is one of the most 
important steps in the filling of a cavity. If this is neglected, 
the filling of the cavity will not prevent further decay, and all 
the work will be worse than lost, since the cement filling will 
hide any further decay and prevent treatment. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



15 




FlQUKE 8 



16 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure 9 



Fig. 9-A, abov£, shows a cavity in a large elm filled with 
cement with strips of tar felt between the layers. This felt allows 
the cement to expand or contract, or the tree to sway without 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure 10 

cracking the cement. The details of another method of filhng 
are shown in Fig. 9-B-C-D-E. The rods are used to reinforce 
the fining, while the wire screen is only used as a dam to hold 
the wet cement in place until it has set. The wire netting is 
then removed and the cement smoothed with a trowel. Care 
should be taken that the surface of the filling does not extend 
beyond the cambium. If the bark or cambium is covered with 
the cement, growth is apt to continue under the filling. This 
will force the filling out or crack it. 

Good cement and clean sand should be used in the propor- 
tion of one part cement to two and one-half parts sand. For 
very large cavities a mixture of one part cement, two parts 
sand, and three parts clean gravel or broken stone can be used. 
A wet mixture will make a better filling than a dryer one, but 
requires a better means of holding it in place. Strips of burlap 
wrapped around the tree across the cavity make a very efficient 
dam. This should not be removed until the cement is thor- 
oughly set. The cement should be kept moist for a few days 
to prevent too rapid drying out, which is apt to result in the 
forming of fine cracks. 

The cement filling is not waterproof, so a coating of asphalt 
or tar should be applied as soon as it is dry. 

Fig. 10-A illustrates an open, shallow cavity ready for creo- 
sote and tar. Shallow cavities of this type are seldom filled. 



18 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure 11 

Fig. 10-B, page 17, shows the method of covering cavities 
with sheet metal. Excavate and treat as if for cement, except 
that bark and cambium should be cut back about one-half inch 
from the edge of the opening to permit nailing of the sheet 
metal, which should be painted on both sides. Be sure that 




Figure 12 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



19 




Figure 13 

the cavity is sterilized and waterproofed before covering. Nail 
the cover tightly and cover with a coat of tar or asphalt. 

Fig. 11-A, page 18, shows a method of attaching a guy chain 
by means of a hook bolt. The tupelo tree in Fig. 11-B is nearly 
strangled by the wires wrapped around the trunk. Wire or rope 
should never be attached to a tree in this way. 

The split crotch in Fig. 11-C has been guyed by means of a 
long bolt about eighteen inches above the crotch. The limbs 
should receive additional support, as shown in Fig. 12, page 18. 
The limbs of this elm have been guyed by several independent 
chains, about fifteen feet above the crotches. This is the best 
method of preventing split crotches. 

In Fig. 13-A the cavity has been excavated and the opening 
is closed tightly with tar paper ready for the charge of carbon 
disulphide that is being injected. The fumes of this liquid will 
penetrate the insect tunnels and destroy the insects. The cover- 
ing should not be removed for several hours, or the fumes may 
not reach every insect. Fig. 13-B is the same cavity after filling 
with cement and coating with tar. The tar prevents the cement 
from absorbing moisture and forming fine surface cracks, 
which in time will spread, destroying the filling. 



20 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure 14 



Fig. 14-A shows the result of poor work. The cement was 
put on over the edge of the growing bark. Growth under the 
cement has cracked it and forced it off. The cavity was not 



r HE P R U N I N G B O K 



n 




Figure 15 

properly treated and is badly decayed. Another poor job is 
shown in Fig, 14-B, The cement covers the bark at the sides 
and in time will be broken away by the growth of the cambium 
beneath. The cement shows many fine cracks, which will 
spread, admitting moisture and disease to the heart of the tree. 

The applying of tar or lead paint to wounds as shown in 
Fig. 14-C-D, would eliminate most of the cavity filling in the 
future. Care should be exercised to prevent the tar or paint 
from covering the edge of the bark, as it is apt to retard the 
healing process. The edge of the bark, as well as the cambium 
and sap wood, should be protected with a coat of shellac. If this 
protection is not given, the bark will dry out and shrink away 
from the edge, leaving a much larger area to be healed over. 
The paint or tar may cover the whole wound if a previous coat of 
shellac has been applied to the sap wood and edge of the bark. 

The linden in Fig. 15-A has had a large number of limbs 
removed, so as to open up the view. A black paint has been 
used on the cuts. The same tree is shown in Fig. 15-B which 
shows how the scar is covered from the sides by the tree's 
efforts to form more direct sap passages across the scar. 



22 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure 16 



A good example of Nature's pruning is given by Fig. 16. 
The lower limbs have died because of lack of light. Close plant- 
ing of city street trees will lead to a similar loss of lower limbs. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



23 




Figure 17 



Forest and Shade Trees 

One of our greatest natural assets is our timber land. Its 
care and utilization have received a vast amount of study in the 
United States during the past few years. 

The pruning needed in forest work consists for the most 
part in removing dead branches and a careful thinning of the 
stand of trees. Any tree that is declining in vigor through crowd- 
ing or from insects and disease should be removed. The removal 
of undesirable trees would permit the better development of the, 
more valuable trees. 

Fig. 17 shows the result of such a thinning and pruning. 
The brush should always be piled and carefully burned. This 
will destroy many insects and greatly lessen the fire risk. 

Insects and diseases are more apt to attack weak and dying 



24 



THE PRUNING « O O K 




Figure 18 

trees; if such are removed, the trees remaining will be better 
able to resist these attacks and make a better growth. 

The stubs shown in Fig. 18-A were left to prevent bleeding 
where live limbs were removed from the pines. These stubs 
will be cut close two or three years later. This method also 
prevents cracked and loose knots in conifers. 

Fig. 18-B shows a white pine and Scotch pine plantation 
properly pruned. Only dead limbs were removed. Note the 
straight trunks of the white pine. 

Many mixed stands of hardwoods will be found to contain 



T HE PRUNING BOOK 



•i5 




Figure 19 

good stands of softwoods. Careful harvesting of the hardwoods 
will result in the harvesting of a second growth of timber at a 
much earlier date than would be the case otherwise. Fig. 19-A 
and B shows a stand of this type and the result of a careful har- 
vesting of the hardwoods. The pines are about eight feet tall 
and will now make rapid growth. 




Figure 20 

The stand of young pines in Fig. 20-A have been pruned too 
young, as they should be permitted to form as dense a canopy 
as possible. The white pines in Fig. 20-B have been slightly 
pruned to produce clean trunks and give air drainage to the crops. 
Where live wood must be removed, as in this case, the work 
should be done as shown in Fig. 18-A, page 24. 



'iii 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure 21 

The catalpa plantation shown in Fig. 21 has been pruned to 
form clean, straight trunks for posts and poles. Care should 
be used to leave enough limbs to produce abundant leaf surface 
for maximum growth. 

The practice of cutting the tops off at the ground after each 
year's growth for the first two or three years is often resorted 
to in order to obtain straight trunks. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



27 





Figure 



When it is necessary to remove large limbs, the wounds 
must be sterilized and painted, as the catalpa is subject to at- 
tacks of a fungus that causes decay in the heartwood of the 
live trees. 



28 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure 23 

Fig. 22-A and B, page 27, shows the effect of continued annual 
heading back of poplars. (A) After headingback in the spring. (B) 
Similar trees after a year's growth. Beauty has been destroyed. 
In time the tree will be filled with a mass of decayed stubs. 

The trees in Fig. 23 have been butchered. Judging from the 
location, the owner wanted small trees. He has made the mis- 
take of planting Oriental Plane trees, which are naturally a 
strong-growing tree. The mistake is made worse by cutting the 
trees back in the dormant season, which leaves fewer buds for 
the roots to feed when growth starts. This will result in a 
stronger growth. Better results would be obtained by pruning 
in the growing season. This will check the growth, though the 
tree would never have a natural form by either method. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



29 




Figure 24 



The trees shown in Fig. 24-A are old soft maples that have 
been planted too closely and permitted to form long, slender, 
main limbs, which were apt to be broken by storms. The tops 
have been removed without regard to form or future growth. 
Ko protection was provided for the scars and the trees have 
been allowed to resume their former faulty habits of growth. 
In a few years the limbs will be just as tall and straggly as before, 
with the added danger of cavities at the base of the limbs. Just 
such a cavity caused the damage shown in Fig. 24-B. Prompt 
attention to wounds would have prevented decay and the 
consequent damage to the tree and house. 



30 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure 25 

The poplars in Fig. 25-A have been damaged by horses 
that have chewed the bark. This destruction of the bark leaves 
the wood tissues exposed to decay. This would weaken the 
trunk and make possible the loss of the tree as in Fig. 25-B. 

This damage would have been prevented if proper guards 
had been placed around the trees. Where such cavities exist 
and the tree is worth the expense, the proper treatment would 
be to excavate and treat the cavity as described in the preceding 
pages. Where cavities are large enough to make the tree 
dangerously weak, the top should be headed back somewhat. 



THE P R U N I y G BOOK 31 



Nut Trees 

Nut trees should be pruned in such a manner as to produce 
a strong frame and maximum bearing surface. Spra3i.ng and 
harvesting need not be considered, though a tree of too great 
height is not desirable; such trees are liable to be damaged by 
wind. 

A tree of medium height and natural form with strong, well 
placed frame, is the most desirable. 

The trees should not receive any more pruning than is 
needed to produce a strong, well balanced head free from dis- 
eased or broken limbs. 

Large limbs should not be removed except when absolutely 
necessan,' and all cuts should be sterilized, and those over one 
inch in diameter should be painted. Z^Iost of the nut trees are 
subject to fimgus diseases. 

The Pecans and Persian walnuts are subject to rapid decay 
imless all wounds are protected untU healed. 

The same general principles apply in pnming nut trees as in 
pruning shade trees so far as the framework is concerned. 

The Persian walnut should not be pruned in late winter or 
early spring, since much damage may result from ''bleeding." 

Care should be exercised in making all cuts, and stubs should 
never be left in any part of the tree, since decay and possibly 
the loss of the tree are almost sure to follow. 

Proper attention to the formation of a strong framework 
while the tree is yoxmg will well repa\' all the cost during later 
years. A careful study of the pruning of young fruit trees as 
described on the following pages will be of much assistance in 
this work. 



32 THE PRUNING BOOK 



Tree Planting 



Many failures in orchard or shade tree growing are directly- 
due to neglect of proper precautions at planting time. Most 
trees are in good condition when received from the nursery and 
when received should be placed in proper storage until planting 
time. One of the best methods is to "heel " the trees in a trench 
so that the tree roots are protected from the drying effect of sun 
and wind. The soil should be well packed about the roots and 
in case the roots have become dried through exposure, a soaking 
with water will be a great help. The preparation of the soil for 
planting should be thorough, but will depend largely on the type 
of soil and the purpose and extent of planting. The time of 
planting will depend on local weather conditions, though the usual 
time is as soon as the soil can be properly worked in the spring. 

If the trees to be planted are large shade trees, the excavation 
should be made large enough to receive the roots without cramp- 
ing, and deep enough to permit the tree to stand from two to six 
inches deeper than it stood in the nursery row, depending on 
the size of the tree. 

If the trees are small, such as are planted in fruit orchards, 
the usual method is to plow a deep furrow where a row of 
trees is to stand and use a spade to deepen the furrow at the 
points where trees are to be placed. 

The trees should not be taken from the trench until there are 
places prepared to plant them. The trees should be examined 
before planting and all diseased and stunted ones rejected. 
Bulletins of the United States Department of Agriculture and 
the State Experiment Stations, describing the various diseases, 
should be studied, and all trees showing the symptoms of the 
disease described should be discarded. A diseased tree cannot 
develop properly and may infect the whole orchard. 

If the tree is a good one the top and roots should be pruned 
as described later and the tree set so that the roots spread 
naturally and the soil should be well packed around and between 
the roots. Good top soil should be used for this and no stable or 
strawy manure should be used in the excavation. A handful 
of bone-meal scattered through the soil packed about the roots 
will help give the tree a good start, but too much decaying 
vegetable matter in contact with the cut roots may cause trouble. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 33 

Great care should be exercised in filling the excavation to 
insure a thorough packing of the soil about the roots. 

Orchard trees should be leaned slightly in the direction from 
which the prevailing winds come, and after the orchard is set, 
two or three light furrows should be turned toward the rows of 
trees. This will help to hold them in place and prevent switch- 
ing by the wind, which is apt to damage the tender new roots 
that are forming. 

Large trees should be supported by stakes set at planting 
time. 

Shade and ornamental trees may need constant watching 
during the first summer season, since the greatly diminished 
root surface is seldom able to secure moisture enough in dry 
weather to support the top. 

The same general principles apply to all the tree growth, and 
must be taken into account if good results are desired. Vertical 
growth is more rapid than horizontal, though with less tendency 
to bear fruit. Pruning during the dormant period is followed by 
increased growth if not carried to excess, while any pruning 
during the growing season tends to check the growth. Any- 
thing which checks the growth of a tree induces a more abun- 
dant production of fruit buds for the following season. Lack of 
water or nitrates, the loss of branches by storms or pruning, 
loss of roots or the loss of foliage will all help produce this 
result, though if carried to extreme will result in the weakening 
and loss of the tree. 



34 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure "ZG 



Fruit Trees 

The first four or five years of the tree's life should be devoted 
to root and top growth in order that good crops or a good form 
may be obtained, depending on the results desired. If the 
tree is for shade or ornament, a well-supported top of pleasing 
form with a maximum of healthy foliage is the chief consider- 
ation. If the production of fruit is the aim, then a very different 
set of conditions must be considered. 

The first few years of a tree's life is a very critical period so 
far as the pruning is concerned, since a mistake made then be- 
comes more difficult to correct with each succeeding year. The 
framework formed at this period retains its character and posi- 
tion during the life of the tree, unless there is a loss of limbs 
through accident or pruning. 

The work of pruning should commence at the time the tree 
is planted. Fig. 26-A shows six typical one-year-old apple 
trees as received from the nursery. They have made a good, 
straight growth, free from branches. The pruning of these 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



35 




FlGTTKE 27 



36 THE PRUNING BOOK 

trees will be very simple. The roots should be attended to before 
setting the tree. Any broken or badly bruised roots should have 
the injured parts removed, and the larger roots should have the 
ends cut smooth to aid in the healing process. Very long roots 
should be cut back to correspond somewhat with the length of 
the other roots. 

After setting, the top should be cut ofT to a point about two 
or two and one-half feet above the surface of the ground. This 
determines the point at which the head or crotches of the tree 
will be formed. 

When two-year-old trees are used, such as are shown in 
Fig. 26-B, page 34, the height of the tree's head has usually 
been determined by the pruning done in the nursery at the 
end of the first year's growth. 

The laterals (a) grew during the second year. They usually 
develop better in the open field or orchard than in the nursery 
row, and this, combined with the lower price, makes the one- 
year-old tree the best for commercial planting. 

After the two-year-old tree is set, three or four of the laterals 
should be selected as evenly spaced around the tree as possible. 

These should be about four to six inches apart in a vertical 
direction, and should be shortened as shown by the tree at the 
right. The trees will seldom grow in such a manner as to make 
this ideal of pruning possible, so the workman should study the 
habits of growth of each variety of tree he comes in contact 
with, paying particular attention to the type of crotches or 
unions made between the trunk and branches. Fig. 27-A-B, 
page 35, is an apple tree after one year's growth, before and after 
pruning. The same tree is shown in Fig. 27-C after the second 
season's growth and pruning. This tree has a tendency to very 
upright growth, and while the usual framework or scaffold 
branches have been selected, others have been permitted to 
remain for a few seasons, so that the permanent branches will 
make a more spreading growth. 

Fig. 27-D shows many stubs (A) and has too many main 
limbs, which prevent the proper development of fruit spurs 
inside the tree. As the limbs increase in diameter, they will 
come in contact at the point indicated by the arrows, which 
will tend to split the crotch as the pressure increases. 

The tree in Fig. 28-A-B has been pruned so as to leave 
two sets of main limbs, one above the other. The upper set will 
soon become the dominant one, and unless suppressed by pruning 
will soon shade the lower limbs, causing them to weaken and die. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



37 





Figure 28 

Most of the trees in the orchard shown in Fig. 28-C have 
too many limbs starting at or near the same point. This wilK 
not leave enough room for them all to develop and will result 
in the growth of slender branches. 

The four-year-old Rome Beauty apple trees in Fig. 29-A, 
page 38, show a very decided tendency to upright growth. 



38 



THE PRUNING BOOK 





Figure 29 

One or two good crops of apples will cause the limbs to spread 
and leave the center of the tree more open. The tendency of 
this type of tree is to develop a fruiting area outside and under 
the axis of the main limb, causing the limb to bend away 
from the center of the tree. Study the tree in Fig. 29-B and note 
the horizontal development of the main limbs, and the fact that 
the most of the load of fruit will be above the axis of the limb 
which will have a tendency to twist. The limbs are also more 
apt to be injured by teams and tools. 

The tree in Fig. 30-A-B, page 39, has a good form, but is mak- 
ing too strong a wood growth to need such severe dormant prun- 
ing. The tree would come into profitable bearing much sooner 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



39 




Figure 30 

if some of this pruning were done during the growing season, 
which would check wood growth and favor the development of 
fruit buds. Too many of the twigs have been removed from the 
lower part of the tree, leaving long, bare branches. 

The tree in Fig. 30-C and D has developed its main branches 
at an angle of about forty-five degrees, which is about as wide 
an angle as is desirable. 



40 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure 31 

The orchard shown in Fig. 31-A is a very good example of 
what can be done by intelligent work in a commercial orchard. 
Note that the main limbs have been given plenty of room to 
develop lateral branches. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



41 




Fig. 31-B, page 40, shows a row of Jonathan apple trees. 
These trees are about fifteen years old, and are well branched 
and open enough to admit the sunlight so much needed by this 
variety to give it color. 

The apple usually produces its fruit on spurs or twigs that 
are one or more years old, and these twigs should not be pruned 



42 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure 3S 

off, even though they appear on the larger Hmbs. Fruit spurs 
on the larger limbs should be encouraged by keeping the top of 
the tree thin enough to admit sunlight to the center of the tree. 

The trees in Fig. 32-A and B, page 41, are two excellent argu- 
ments in favor of low-headed trees. The leaves have been stripped 
from the tree in Fig. 32-B to show the even distribution of fruit. 

The fruit from such trees can be gathered with comparative 
ease, as most of it can be reached from the ground or short step- 
ladders. Since the harvesting of the fruit is one of the largest 
single items in the cost of production, it would be wise to con- 
sider it at pruning time and so shape the tree as to bring the 
bulk of the bearing surface as near the ground as practical. 
Objection is made by some to such low limbs, claiming that 
they make cultivation difficult. This can hardly be termed a 
serious objection, since any cultivation that might be done near 
the trunk of trees of this size would probably do more damage 
to the large roots than it could do good to the tree as a whole, 
and extension disc-harrows and smoothing-harrows would 
reach a considerable distance under the low limbs without doing 
damage to any part of the tree. 

Note that the tree has been so trained that the load of fruit 
is carried outside of and under the axis of the main limbs. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 43 

The twelve-year-old Esopus apple tree in Fig. 33, page 42, 
could be made self-supporting by shortening the branches, but 
this would also reduce the fruiting area of the tree. The props 
are a good solution of the problem where the required labor 
and material is available. 

EXPERIMENTS IN SUMMER PRUNING 

The summer pruning of the apple tree has received very 
little attention in most of the commercial orchards,, though 
there are some fruit growers both in the East and the West that 
are getting good results in improved color and quality through 
careful summer pruning. The following quotations from Bul- 
letin 98, of the University of Idaho Agricultural Experiment 
Station, give the results of careful experiments with summer 
pruning covering a period of three years : 

"The primary object of the experiment was the determination of the 
effect of winter vs. summer pruning upon the yield and color of the fruit. 
In order to study the problem, the orchard was divided into two blocks. 
The trees of one block were pruned in the winter time and those of the other 
were pruned in the summer. 

"The trees have been so developed that they will produce a good quality 
of fruit and at the same time ample wood to bear good crops without the 
aid of artificial supports. All the trees were pruned to the open or vase- 
shaped type. 

"Approximately the same amount of wood was removed in each case. 

"The summer pruning was done after the terminal buds had set. 

"The work was performed at this time because the trees have practically 
finished their growth for the year. 

"If the summer pruning is done before the trees have ceased growing, 
adventitious buds will push out below the cuts, which results in a growth of 
shoots. On the other hand, if pruned too late in the season, no opportunity 
is given the buds to swell into fruit buds, which is one of the objects sought 
by summer pruning. 

"1. The data presented in this bulletin on winter versus summer prun- 
ing of apple trees, shows the results secured under the two methods for a 
period of eleven years. The object of the experimental work was to test 
the value of winter pruning compared with summer pruning as measured by 
yield and color of fruit. There were four varieties — ^Jonathan, Rome, 
Grimes and Wagener, and seventy-four trees under observation. 

"2. The nature of the pruning and the amount of wood removed each 
year from both blocks were practically the same. 

"3. The average terminal growth in Jthe summer-pruned block in 1916 
was 15.4 inches; in the winter-pruned block 14.02 inches; a difference in 
favor of summer pruning of 1.38 inches. 

"4. The measurement of the height and width of all trees in both blocks 
at the close of the season's growth in 1916, shows that summer pruning,^ 
with most varieties, checked the wood growth slightly. 

"5. Taking the diameter of the tree trunks as a basis for judging vigor, 
we find that the trees are somewhat larger in the winter-pruned block. 
The diflference, however, is practically insignificant. 



44 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



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Figure 35 



"6. With some varieties, summer pruning has hastened the bearing 
of young trees and increased crop production. 

"7. The evidence shows that thinning has a direct relation to pruning 
and crop production. 

"8. On the basis of the total production for the first seven crops, sum- 
mer pruning has produced the greater yield in all varieties. The average 
annual increase per tree for each variety was as follows: Jonathan, 5.17 
pounds; Rome, 8.37 pounds; Grimes, 7.22 pounds, and Wagener, 40.98 
pounds. 

"9. With all red varieties of apples under experimentation the color 
was intensified as a direct result of summer pruning. 

"10. The crop value per acre as determined by holh, color and yield 
shows an average gain in the three summer-pruned plats over winter prun- 
ing as follows: Jonathan, $52.33; Rome, $53.64, and Wagener, $30.69." 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



45 




Figure 36 



The trees in Fig. 36-A and B are examples of very low and 
very high headed trees. These trees are about the same age, 
and the tops are about the same size. The low-headed tree is 
forming a second series of branches in the center of the top, 
which should be removed before it becomes too dominant. The 
high-headed tree is a badly formed tree in many ways. It has 
a high head that is expensive to prune, spray, or from which to 
harvest. It also has a very bad formation of the main branches. 
This type of tree will later develop into just such a tree as is 
shown in Fig. 36-C, with its weak crotches and long, bare limbs. 

The older trees are our best sources of information on many 
things. Early mistakes are emphasized and the value of good 
care in the early life of the tree is clearly shown. 

Fig. 36-D shows some very good crotch formation. The 
greatest fault this tree has is the lack of low limbs. This is aii 
expensive type of tree to harvest fruit from, since most of the 
crop must be reached by the use of ladders. 



46 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




FlGUBE 37 

Fig. 37 shows trees that are typical of most of the neglected 
orchards. The younger trees (Fig. 37-A) are still vigorous, but 
are too high and dense and are beginning to interfere with each 
other. The lower limbs will die and decay, with results similar 
to those shown in the older trees. Fig. 37-B. 

The trees in Fig. 38-A have been well pruned, though in 
some sections with less sunlight they would need to be thinned 
a little to admit more air and light. This orchard is in Indiana. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



47 











Figure 38 



A very fine tree is shown in Fig. 38-B. This tree has had all 
the room it has needed for its development. The trees in the 
background are too close, and as a consequence are forming 
high and unprofitable tops, while the more valuable bearing 
wood near the ground is becoming shaded and weak. 



48 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure 39 

The first step in renovating a neglected tree is shown in 
Fig. 39. All of the dead wood has been removed and some of 
the live branches have been thinned out. The wounds should 
be treated to prevent decay and induce early healing. There 
are a few stubs in the upper part of the tree that should be re- 
moved, since they will either die back, causing a larger wound, 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



49 




Figure 40 

or they will send out a number of sprouts that 
expense of the more valuable parts of the limb, 
out of the live limbs calls for the removal of 
wood, the heading in or lowering of the upper 
deferred till the next year. 

The heading in or dehorning of trees that 
limbs above the point where harvesting can be 
is a problem that faces many in the pruning of 



will grow at the 

If the thinning 

very much live 

limbs should be^ 

have developed 
done with profit 
old orchards. 



50 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure 41 

Very good and very poor jobs of this type are shown in 
Fig. 40-A and B. In the first case, the cutting has been done 
in such a way that the general form of the tree has been pre- 
served and there is abundant bearing wood to produce a crop 
the next season. All the cutting has been done just above lat- 
erals, thus leaving wounds that will heal quickly. The second 
job is just plain tree butchery. 

The tree in Fig. 41-A-B needs some of the upper limbs 
removed, but owing to its vigorous condition and the large 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



51 




Figure 42 

amount of live wood removed in the thinning process, any 
further cutting should be deferred until the next pruning season. 

Fig. 41-C, page 50, shows the result of too close planting. 
The lower limbs are being weakened by lack of air and sunlight.^ 

The orchard in Fig. 42-A has been ruined by the removal of 
the more valuable lower limbs. These lower limbs can never be 
replaced. 

Fig, 42-B illustrates the unsanitary condition of many farm 
orchards. Such neglect helps the spread of insects and disease, 



52 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



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Figure 43 

prevents proper cultivation, and makes the other orchard work 
both unsatisfactory and dangerous. 

The chief function of a fruit tree is to produce crops of fruit. 
This demands a strong frame, in order that maximum crops 
may be borne without injury to the tree. Careless pruning is 
practically certain to lead to the formation of cavities at vital 
points in the tree, as shown in Figs.43-A and 43-B. These cavities 
form very soon in apple trees, therefore every step should be 
taken in the proper treatment of all wounds. 

The scar shown in Fig. 43-C is properly made and protected. 
If it is kept protected, the new growth will soon cover it and 
prevent infection in the future. 

Three forms of tree guards are shown in Fig. 44-A, B, and C, 
page 53. These are useful in sections where trees are subject to 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



53 




1-k;ure 44 



attacks by rabbits. Fig. 44-D shows a band under which codling 
moth larva may hibernate, making it a little easier to find and 
destroy them. The most efficient method of combating this 




Figure 45 



54 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure 46 

pest is proper spraying of the tree. Fig. 45-A, B, C, and D 
shows various forms of hairy root of the apple. Such trees 
should never be planted. 

A great deal could be said in connection with the effects of 
disease on the work of pruning. Many of the diseases affecting 
trees may be spread through the orchard by the careless use of 
pruning tools after working in a diseased tree. A large-mouthed 
bottle containing corrosive sublimate solution of about 1 to 
1000 strength and a swab should be part of every pruning equip- 
ment. This should be used in disinfecting the tools at intervals 
and especially after working on a diseased tree. 

Trees vary in their resistance to disease. This variation is 
influenced by many factors, such as variety of fruit, the climate, 
soil, density of the foliage, cultural treatment, weather condi- 
tions, and insect attacks. 

The tree shown in Fig. 46-A has been injured by blight. The 
progress of the disease is rapid, and the infection usually starts 
in growing twigs that have been injured by insects. Any dis- 
eased branches should be removed. The cut should be made 
well below the diseased portion. This disease may be spread 
from tree to tree unless the tools are disinfected. 

Fig. 46-B shows the injury caused by the woolly aphis. The 
tree will outgrow this defect if tha insect is controlled, otherwise 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



55 




Figure 47 



the limbs will become weak and unable to produce good 
fruit. The commercial fruit tree of today is produced by one of 
two methods: the grafting of a scion from a tree of the desired 
variety on a hardy seedling, or by inserting a bud, taken from 
the proper variety, in a slit made in the bark of the stock. 
After the bud starts growth, the portion of the stock above the 
bud is removed, permitting the new shoot to form the top of 
the tree. Fig. 47-A is an apple scion grafted on a seedling root. 
The scion has been tied in place and is ready to be waxed and 
planted. The wax is applied to the joint, and prevents the tis- 
sues becoming dry, which would prevent growth. 

Fig. 47-B shows a similar tree after one year's growth. This 
is the ideal tree to plant under most conditions, since there is 
a better chance for the top to develop in the field than in the 
nursery row. 

The tree shown in Fig. 47-C has grown for two years in the 
nursery since being grafted. Most of the roots were left in the 
ground when the tree was dug. This calls for a correspondingly 
heavy pruning of the top at planting time. 

Any shoots or suckers that start from below the point where 
the tree was grafted should be removed at once. If the tree 
is not planted deep enough to prevent these sprouts from form- 
ing, there will be constant trouble. All trees should be set four 
to six inches deeper than they were in the nursery row. 



56 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure 48 



Apple trees that bear undesirable varieties of fruit may be 
top grafted to any variety wanted, provided the tree is in a 
healthy growing condition. The work should be extended over 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



57 



Hwk.3rK.''^^^l 


yMMsnj^ v^KSj 




m% 


..^'^•■vSw 


y.J.^CA>-^M 


^^1 


W^i^^' 


^Jh 


-'^^^M'^^^i 


r ' '^-1 


^ , -^' 




1 -*^/iil 


J^ 



Figure 49 

a period of two or three years, since the tree would be too severely 
checked if all of its leaf surface were to be removed at one time. 

Two methods of doing this work are shown in Fig. 48-Aand B, 
page 56. The cleft graft method shown in the upper illustration 
is good if the branches are small. The limb should be cut off 
with a saw at the point where the grafts are to be inserted. The 
grafting tool is then used to split the limb and the wedge is used 
to open the cleft enough to receive the scion, which should be 
cut in the form of a wedge and inserted so that the cambium of 
the scion comes in contact with the cambium of the limb as 
much as possible. The second scion should be inserted in the 
opposite side of the cleft in the same manner, and the cut sur- 
faces and the stub should be covered with grafting wax and 
wrapped with strips of cloth to prevent drying of the tissues 
until healing commences. Kerf grafting differs only in the way- 
the limb is prepared to receive the scion, a saw being used to 
cut a notch instead of splitting the limb. This offers less chance 
for decay to enter. 

Fig. 49 shows the scions after growth has started, as well as 
the way in which the wrappings should be applied. 



58 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Fig. 50 shows a large apple tree before top working and after 
half of the branches have been grafted. The other branches 
may be grafted the next year. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



59 




Figure 51 

Fig. 51-A shows the fruit buds of the peach which are formed 
on either side of the leaf buds on wood of the current year's 
growth. Fig. 51-B shows the fruiting habit of the plum, while 
that of the cherry and apricot are shown by Figs. 51-C and' 
51-D. These fruits set fruit buds on both the current year's 
wood and on fruit spurs. It is important that this be remembered 
at pruning time. 



60 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure 52 

The peach tree, hke the apple, should be carefully pruned at 
planting time. Only one-year-old trees should be planted. 
Fig. 52 shows the various steps in the pruning of a typical 
peach tree. The head should be formed about eighteen inches 
above the ground. Where possible, several nicely placed lat- 
erals should be left as shown in Fig. 52-B; these should be 
cut short, as in Fig. 52-C-D. The roots need attention, as 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



61 




Figure 53 

indicated in Fig. 52-E and F, page 60. Borers should be looked 
for just above the roots. Their presence is usually indicated 
by the presence of gum or sap on the surface of the bark. If 
any are found, they must be dug out to prevent further damage. 

The tree should be watched during the first season, and any 
undesirable sprouts rubbed off, permitting the more desirable 
shoots to develop unhindered. Aside from this, the tree should 
not be pruned during the first growing season. 

Fig. 53 shows the pruning of a one-year-old peach tree. This 
tree was pruned to a straight stalk or whip when planted, and 
seven branches have started from it at various points. It may 
be noted that the lowest branches have made the strongest 
growth. This is generally true of all peach trees, therefore, if 
it is desired that the head be formed at a certain point, all 
branches starting below that point should be removed as soon 
as possible. 

The average tree under ordinary culture may be pruned as 
severely as the one in Fig. 53, and should make a strong, healthy 
growth the following season. Trees that are apt to make very 



62 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




FiGUKE 54 

strong growth because of cultural conditions or variety should 
be pruned like the tree shown in Fig. 54. The branches have 
been left somewhat longer, and some of the lateral twigs have 
been retained, so that the next season's growth will be more 
widely distributed. 

These lateral twigs should always be tipped; that is, a few 
inches of the tip should be removed, which eliminates the weak 
buds and permits the more mature buds to continue the growth 
in the spring. It may be noted in Fig. 54 that the branches did 
not start from the top of the tree, but from a much lower point. 
The stub should always be removed close to the top lateral as 
shown, so that the wound may heal properly. 

Fig. 55-A, page 63, shows a peach tree after the second sea- 
son's growth. This tree has been making good growth, and should 
produce a good crop of fruit the next season. Enough of the 
small branches or laterals having fruit buds on them are left to 
carry this crop. Care should be taken to have these laterals 
well distributed, so that air and light may have free access to 
all parts of the tree. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



«3 




This tree was too severely cut back, but not thinned out enough 
after the first season's growth. If only three instead of six 
branches had been retained, and the three been pruned as shown in 
Fig. 54-B, a much better type of growth would have been secured^ 



64 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure 56 



Fig. 56 shows a typical commercial orchard at the beginning 
of the fifth year's growing season. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



65 




Figure 57 

The tree in Fig. 57-A has had the leaves stripped to show the 
good set of fruit in the lower part of tree. This low-bearing wood 
has been lost through faulty pruning in the tree shown in Fig. 57-B. 



66 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure 58 

Fig. 58-A shows an advanced stage in the development of a 
tree pruned as in Fig. 57-B, page 65; that is, headed in but not 
properly thinned out in the top to provide for the multiplying 
of the branches. The tree has lost nearly all of its low-bearing 
wood through being shaded by the dense growth above. A proper 
thinning of the upper part of the tree would have permitted 
enough sunlight to reach the lower growth for the proper devel- 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



67 




Figure 59 

opment of good fruit. The severe pruning shown in Fig. 58-B, 
page 66, was given in order that a new low head might be secured. 
Such treatment is also given after winter injury, but otherwise^ 
need never be called for if the earlier pruning is properly done.^ 
The tree in Fig. 58-C was pruned after the first season's 
growth and then permitted to make three year's growth with- 
out further pruning. 



68 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure GO 

The tree in Fig. 59 has been well pruned, though it is in need 
of more thinning unless it is growing in a very sunny locality. 

The advantage of an open, low head is quite apparent at 
harvest time. The trees in Fig. 60 are easy to cultivate or spray, 
and the fruit may be reached easily from the ground or from 
short ladders. The sunlight is able to reach all parts of the tree, 
insuring a better development of the foliage, and fruit having 
finer flavor and color than could be expected from trees as dense 
as those shown in Fig. 61-A and B, page 69. Sunlight is essential 
to the development of good flavor and color in fruit of any 
kind, and the admission of sunlight to all parts of the tree should 
be kept in mind when pruning a fruit tree. 

The trees shown in Fig, 61-A and B are growing in Eddy 
County, New Mexico, and have retained their vigor in spite of 
their dense tops because of the good soil and abundant sunlight. 
They were ten years old when photographed. Most of the bearing 
wood is in the top of the tree, which makes harvesting difficult. 

The forming of a low head does not insure a low top, as may 
be seen in Fig. 61-C. This tree has a low head, but the main 
branches have been stripped of their low laterals, leaving the 
bearing surface of the tree very high. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



69 




Figure 61 



The pruning of all the stone fruits does not vary much from 
the treatment called for by the peach. They all should be so 
pruned that the tree will make a healthy growth each year 
without becoming too dense, or too large. This will mean a 
systematic cutting back and thinning of the growth each year. 



70 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure 62 



With the exception of the cherry, which is the largest of the 
stone fruit trees, a large size is seldom attained before the tops 
show signs of decline and the tree attempts to send out new 
growth near the trunk. 

The plum is very apt to set more fruit than it can properly 
mature, and small fruit, weakened trees, and increased decay are 
the result unless the fruit is thinned when about half grown. 
Fig. 62 shows a well-pruned Burbank plum tree. The fruit is 
being thinned. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



71 








Figure 63 

The plum trees in Fig. 63 have very well placed limbs, though 
the tops are too thick for the best development of the fruit. 

Apricots and prunes need the same general treatment as the 
peach and plum. 

The cherry needs careful pruning every year. The open 
head is the best form for most sections, since the fruit requires 
an abundance of air and sunlight for the best development and 
freedom from disease. 

A sweet cherry tree will form long, slender branches unless 
careful heading back is practiced during the early life of the 
tree. Most sweet cherries are upright in their growth, and care 
should be taken to prevent them from becoming too high. Both 
sweet and sour cherries will bear good crops on their lower 
limbs if the tops of the trees are kept open and low. It should 
be remembered that the harvesting of the cherry crop is a tedi- 
ous and expensive operation, and that broad, low heads will 
bear the most profitable crops. 

The sour cherry is more spreading in its growth than the 
sweet cherry, and is apt to form a dense top. Unless the top 
is kept open, the lower limbs soon become weak and die. 

Pear trees are upright in their habit of growth, and have a 



72 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure 64 

tendency to form a top that is too thick. Some growers have 
tried to overcome the upright growth by heading back the vertical 
shoots, as has been done for several years in the case shown 
in Fig. 64-A, with the result of forming very stiff, upright branches 
that become so crowded that fruit will not develop properly. 
The trees in Fig. 64-B have been headed in closely the first 
two years and then allowed to grow without cutting back, 
except to keep the tree in good form, the chief attention being 
given to thinning out the branches so that they would have 
abundant room for development. These branches will be bent 
outward with the heavy crops of pears, and will need attention 
during the growing season or they will become overloaded and 
break. After harvest the branches will be apt to retain their 
horizontal position. This will check their growth and induce 
them to set heavy crops of fruit. If too many pears are set on 
a limb, the leaves will not be able to supply enough food and 
the fruit will be small and of poor quality. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



78 




Figure 65 



The pruning of the raspberry is a very simple though tedious 
operation. The plants send out new shoots each year from the 
base of the plant, as shown in Fig. 65-B. These shoots bear 
fruit the following season. The fruit is borne on the end ot 
short laterals, as shown in Fig. 65-A and C, which grow from 



74 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure 66 



buds on the one-year-old canes. These canes die after one sea- 
son's fruiting, and should be removed immediately after harvest. 

Fig. 65-D, page 73, shows raspberry plants with the old 
fruited canes removed and the new canes which will bear the 
next season. 

The raspberries shown in Fig. 66-A are being grown under 
the hedge system. The canes are not given any artificial sup- 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



75 




Figure 67 

port. This is not advisable where the canes make over four 
feet of growth. 

Two methods of supporting the canes are shown in Fig. 
66-B and C, page 74. 

The old canes that are removed after fruiting in the summer 
should be burned. 



76 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure 68 



The canes should be cut back to healthy wood in the spring, 
and all weak or diseased canes removed. The canes may be 
tied in place at this time and will need no further pruning until 
after fruiting. 

Fig. 67-A, page 75, illustrates the supporting of the canes with 
stakes. A fruit spray of the dewberry is shown in Fig. 67-B and 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



77 


















■*I,A^-: 






« " -/»»•., 




Figure 69 

the method of supporting the fruiting canes in Fig. 67-C. The 
new canes for next year's crop may be seen trailing on the ground. 

The dewberry may be tied to wires, but since the canes are 
so small, and easily bent and broken, the stakes make the best 
support. 

The pinching back or heading in of the raspberry canes 



78 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure 70 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



79 




Figure 71 

during the growing season is not advised unless no means of 
support can be provided. The top row of Fig. 68, page 76, shows 
how branching may be encouraged by this summer prunmg: A, 
the cane and then the laterals pinched back; B, the mam cane 



80 



THE P R U N I N (I BOOK 




Figure 72 

only pinched back; C, not summer pruned. The bottom row 
shows the same plants after the early spring pruning. 

The summer pruning of the blackberry induces fruit bearing. 

The blackberry and logan blackberry produce their fruit in 
the same way as does the raspberry; that is, on one-year-old 
canes that die after producing one crop, and should receive the 
same general treatment. Fig. 69-A, page 77, shows a logan 
blackberry after the fruited canes have been removed and the 
new canes tied in place so they can continue their development. 
Fig. 69-B shows the base of the same plant and the stubs left 
when the old canes were removed. These stubs should have 
been cut much shorter. 

The currant produces the best fruit from buds on one and 



T H E P R U N I N G B O K 81 

two-year-old wood. The bush should be encouraged to send up 
a few new shoots from the root each year to take the place of 
those that have fruited three or four years. 

Fig. 70, page 78, shows how a currant should be pruned to 
permit air and light to reach all parts of the top and to leave 
room for the development of new shoots. 

Gooseberries and currants may be pruned to a tree form as 
shown by the currant in Fig. 71-A and B, page 79, and the 
gooseberry in Fig. 71-C and D. This is not advisable, since 
borers are apt to destroy the entire plant. The renewal of the 
bearing wood is also much more difficult. 

Great care should be taken to burn all trimmings, since 
borers and disease are carried over winter in the small .twigs. 
Dead or dying canes should be removed and burned as soon as 
detected. 

The gooseberry produces the best fruit on the one-year-old 
wood. Care should be taken to keep the bushes well pruned 
so that new wood may have enough room in which to develop 
without interfering with the fruit. All weak and trailing canes 
should be removed. The best time to prune the bush fruits is 
during the dormant season, though some of the oldest canes 
may be removed after the fruit is picked, if the bushes are too 
dense. 

Intelligent pruning of the grape calls for an understanding 
of the bearing habit of the vine and how pruning affects the 
growth of wood and the bearing of fruit. 

The grape bears its fruit on shoots that grow from the lat- 
eral buds of canes that grew the previous season. When prun- 
ing the vines, enough of this one-year-old wood should be saved 
to produce the crop, and new canes should be permitted to grow 
each year to provide this fruiting wood. If the vine is closely 
pruned so that only a small crop of fruit is produced, the vine 
will have a tendency to make a strong growth, while a vine so 
pruned that a heavy crop of fruit is set will not be apt to make 
much wood growth. 

The vines should be pruned when set, leaving only two or 
three buds with which to start growth. When the new shoots 
have reached a length of about three or four inches, the strongest 
one should be selected and all the others removed. If this is 
not done the vine usually will not produce a shoot long enough 
to reach the trellis wire. If the vine does not produce a shoot 
long enough the first season, it should be cut back to two buds 
the following winter and receive the same summer treatment 
that was given the first year. 



8-2 



THE P R U N I N ( J B O O K 




Figure 73 



A trellis should be erected at the end of the first year and a 
decision made as to the system of training to be followed in the 
future. 

Fig. 73 shows the successive steps in the development of the 
framework of the vine under two different systems. 

Fig. 73-A shows the pruning at the end of the second, 
third, and fourth years in the development of a vine supported 
on an overhead trellis. Future renewal of bearing arms should 
be made from a point at or near the head of the vine, which, 
in this case, is near the wires at the top of the stake. 

The pruning given at the end of the second, third, and 
fifth years to a vine trained to six horizontal arms is shown in 
Fig. 73-B. Both of these vines have been pruned by the spur 
method; that is, the previous season's growth is cut back to 
one or two buds during the dormant season. These buds pro- 
duce the bearing shoots for the next crop. This method is not 
as good as the long cane renewal, since the best bearing shoots 
come from the buds near the middle of the cane. Fig. 74 shows 
the same vine that is shown in Fig. 73-B, after the fourth sea- 
son's growth and before pruning. Instead of cutting all the 
canes back to spurs having one or two buds, a better crop 



THE P R U N I N (i BOOK 



8.S 




Figure 74 

would be secured if each arm of the vine were pruned like those 
of the four-arm vine shown in Fig. 75-A, page 84, which was 
pruned by the long-cane renewal method. Instead of cutting back 
each cane on the arm to a spur having one or two buds, two canes 
are selected which grow from the arm as close to the main stem 
of the plant as possible, and the balance of the arm is removed 
and the best cane is tied in its place. This cane will produce 
the crop and if too long may be cut back, reducing the crop. 
The other cane is cut back to a spur having one or two buds, 
which will provide a good cane for renewal the next season. 
Each arm should be given the same treatment each spring. 

Fig. 75-B, page 84, shows a vine pruned according to long- 
renewal principles. Spurs have been left at the base of each 
cane for the purpose of producing canes for renewal next season. 
The long canes may be left long or short, depending on the^ 
strength of the vine and the space to be occupied. 

Fig. 75-C has been pruned according to a modification of the 
long-renewal system, using more canes and cutting them back 
to six or eight buds. 



84 



THE PRUNING BOOK 





Figure 75 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



85 




Figure 76 



Fig 76 shows two modifications of the fan system of trammg 
and long renewal. While the long renewal of the bearmg wood 
is much better than spur renewal, the system of trammg must 
depend on the location, climate, variety, and type ot sup- 
port This training will vary from the overhead trellis sup- 
ported Rotundifolia to the stool or unsupported vmes of the 
stockier varieties of Vinifera. , , , , u t ^-u^ 

All dormant pruning of the grape should be done before the 
sap_starts in the spring to prevent loss of strength by bleedmg. 



86 



THE PRUNING BOOK 




Figure 77 

The pruning of vines will depend on the purpose for which 
the vine was planted. If the vine is to be used only for shade 
or to cover some unsightly place, the only pruning required 
would be the removal of dead portions and a heading in of 
shoots that were growing beyond bounds. Vines planted for 
their bloom or fruit should receive more careful treatment. 
Fig. 77 shows a wisteria as an example of this type of vine. It 
should be noted that the heaviest set of bloom is on those por- 
tions of the vine that are horizontal or are hanging down. 
Horizontally trained shoots have a tendency to bloom and bear 
fruit or seed while vertically trained shoots tend to rapid growth 
at the expense of bloom. 

Such vines as the wisteria should not be heavily pruned 
during the dormant season, since much of the blooming wood 
will be removed at that time. Only remove dead wood and 
defer the main pruning until the vine has bloomed. Occasional 
heading in of strong growing shoots and a little thinning of 
dense portions of the vine will help in the production of late 
bloom. Great care should be exercised to prevent portions of 
the vine growing around or through any part of the wood work, 
since the future growth of the vine may destroy the wood work 
or make it impossible to remove the vine from the building 
when painting or repairs are needed. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



87 




Figure 78 



The pruning of blooming shrubs seems to be a greatly mis- 
understood subject, since very few are properly pruned. 



88 



THE P R U N I N (i BOOK 




Figure 79 

Shrubs will produce more bloom and a better appearance if 
permitted to retain their natural form. If a formal effect is 
desired, a hedge plant such as privet or box should be used. 

Fig. 78-A, page 87, shows Forcythia in bloom, while 78-B 
shows a spring flowering magnolia. These bloom from buds 
formed the previous season, and much of the bloom would be lost 
if the pruning was done in the dormant season. Such shrubs may 
have the broken or diseased parts removed while dormant, but 
the general pruning should be deferred until after the blooming 
period. First all dead or weak shoots should be removed, then 
the canes that have been growing for a number of years should 
be taken out to make room for the younger growth. The best 
bloom is borne on wood that is from one to three years old. 
On such shrubs as Forcythia, the bloom on the older wood is 
borne in clusters on spurs and from lateral buds in the case of 
the one-year-old wood. 

Some spring-blooming shrubs send out short shoots termin- 
ating in a cluster of bloom. These shoots spring from the lat- 
eral buds of the previous year's growth. Like the Forcythia, 
these should be pruned immediately after blooming, so as to 
encourage the formation of new wood. 

Fig. 79 shows the abundance of bloom obtained when the 
shrubs are properly thinned and pruned after blooming. 



THE P R U N I N (; BOOK 



8!> 




90 



T H E P R II N 1 N (; BOOK 




Figure 81 



A careful shaping of the bush after blooming will produce 
better results than the shearing that is sometimes given in the 
spring in an effort to give a good form to the bush. The location 
should be considered when determining the form of the bush. 
The shrub in Fig. 80-A, page 89, has a good form for its position, 
but would not appear as well in a shrubbery border as the one 
in Fig. 80-B, which is so formed that it becomes a part of the 
mass of shrubbery. 



T HE P R n N I N (i BOOK 



91 




Figure 82 



The catalpa tree shown in Fig. 81, page 90, shows one way 
to prevent the spHtting of Hmbs to which this tree is subject. 
This tree should be thoroughly thinned out each year, as shown, 
or the dense foliage will be injured by disease. 

The pruning of a privet hedge is a very simple operation; 
still, a few of the principles of plant growth must be taken into 
consideration if a dense, well-shaped hedge is desired. 

The first pruning should be given at planting time. The 
plants should be set in a trench as in Fig. 82-A and the soil 
firmly packed about the roots to within about two inches of 
the top of the trench. This will make watering easy, and the 
trench may be entirely filled the next year. After setting, the 
plants should be pruned to a point even with the top of the 
trench and then be permitted to grow the entire season without 
further pruning. The second spring the hedge should be cut 
to a uniform height of about four inches. When most of 
the shoots have reached a length of ten inches, the hedge 
should be trimmed to a height of about eight inches and the 
side branches pruned to give a uniform width throughout the 
length of the hedge. The top of the hedge should never be 
permitted to become greater in width than the bottom or the 
lower branches will become weak and possibly die. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 









Figure 83 

The succeeding prunings should not permit the hedge to 
increase more than two or three inches in height or width until 
the desired size is reached, after which the hedge should be 
pruned often enough to keep it in good form. This gradual 
growth in size will insure a dense hedge from the ground up. 
The hedge in Fig. 82-B, page 91, was not cut low enough when 
planted. The result is a weak hedge with little or no growth 
near the ground. The only remedy is to cut the hedge back 
as shown and start over again. 

ROSES 

The pruning of the rose is influenced by the variety and 
location as well as the purpose for which the plant is grown. If 
individual blooms of high quality are wanted, the bushes 
should be severely pruned. Where a mass of bloom is desired, 
remove the old and dead wood, cutting back the plants one-half. 

The teas and hybrid teas should be more severely pruned 
than any other variety. Fig. 83 shows the pruning of a hybrid 
tea rose. The weak shoots were entirely removed and the three 
remaining shoots cut back to about one-third their former 
height. If the plant had not made so much growth, the pruning 



THE P R U N I N (; B () O K 



9:5 



y 




n 






M 



Figure 84 

should be more severe. Fig. 84-A is the same plant at blooming 
time. Note the long stems and compare it with the bush 
in Fig. 84-B, which was not so closely pruned. The second busti 
was left with canes about fourteen inches long. It has produced 
eleven blooming shoots with stems about one-half of the length 
of those on the first plant. Note that the growth is not well 
distributed on the second bush. The unsightly stems are not 
hidden by the foliage, and unless closely pruned after the first 
blooming the plant is not apt to produce enough strong, new 
canes for renewal. 

If not removed sooner, every bloom should be removed as 
soon as the petals begin to fall. The cut should be made so as 
to leave only one or two buds at the base of the shoot. These 
will start growth soon and reproduce the shoot that has been 
removed. 

The rose shown in Fig. 85-A and B, page 94, has been very 
poorly pruned. It has only been headed in each year without 
thinning the branches. The top is too dense to permit the growth 
of new shoots from near the ground, or to develop a good crop of 
bloom. One-half of the wood shown in Fig. 85-B should be 
removed, leaving the youngest. 

Many hybrid tea roses are budded on strong gi'owing stocks. 



94 



THE PRUNING B O O K 




Figure 85 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



95 
















/-' 


y 














- / , 


^ 


— "^ \ 


V 


J 1 




a 




"X. - 


^^^>^ 


V— - — ^^~~_ 






-^ 




_x^ 


V 


c 


r- 


T 


-^ 


^ 


b 


-^ 


>< 



Figure 80 



These stocks often send up suckers, which, if permitted to grow^, 
would rob the more desirable top of proper nourishment, caus- 
ing it to die. These suckers have leaves with seven leaflets, and 
the tea and hybrid teas have leaves with only five leaflets. 
The pruning of the hybrid perpetuals for cut flowers is the 



96 THE PRUNING BOOK 

same as given the hybrid teas. All of the old wood should be 
removed and the new canes thinned out in the spring. These 
canes should be cut back to about six inches. Fig. 85-C and D, 
page 94, shows a rose of this type and the proper pruning to give. 
If a quantity of bloom is wanted, two or three of the strongest one- 
year-old canes should be selected and all other wood removed. 
These canes will produce blooming shoots along their entire 
length if bent over in a horizontal position and tied to stakes 
to keep them in place. See explanation Fig. 86-C, page 95. 

Rugosa roses need only a little thinning out of the old canes 
each year. 

The brier roses usually bloom on shoots that grow from lat- 
erals, and should not be as closely pruned as the ramblers; 
only removing enough of the oldest wood each spring to let 
light and air reach all parts of the bush. 

The ramblers and climbing teas should be pruned after 
blooming and all wood that has bloomed removed. The best 
bloom is produced on the one-year-old canes. Fig. 86-A, page 
95, shows a rambler that did not receive the proper treatment 
after blooming the previous season. The dead cane was per- 
mitted to bloom for two years and did not have strength enough 
to start out the third year. 

The greatest bloom is obtained from climbers when the canes 
are trained in a horizontal position. Note that the vertical 
canes in Fig. 86-B are devoid of bloom or leaf growth. This is 
better shown by Fig. 86-C. The cane marked (a) was trained 
in a vertical position and has bloomed from the upper third of 
the cane only, as indicated by the stubs. The cane marked (b) 
was trained in a horizontal position for blooming, and has 
bloomed along its entire length. Both canes were cut from the 
plant within six inches of the ground. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 97 



Tool: 



The work of pruning demands tools that are both sharp and 
well constructed. A dull tool makes a poor cut and wastes 
the workman's patience and strength. These tools should 
also be well designed so that they will perform properly the 
work for which they were purchased. The various operations 
of pruning call for equipment differing widely in construction 
and use. These different types of tools are also modified to 
suit the varied tastes and demands of the individual workman. 

We respectfully call attention to the wide variety and high 
quahty of the Disston line of pruning tools. 

There are many calls for a tool that will remove branches 
that cannot be reached with ordinary tools. "The Little 
Giant" and "The Orchard", — pruning hook and saw,— 
mounted on a pole of the required length are ideal tools for this 
type of work. The pruning saw and knife No. 20, the pruning 
saws Nos. 10, 11, and 111, are also good tools for this work. 

The removal of large limbs demands a saw with a long nar- 
row blade. Numbers 3, 7, 7>^, D-24, D-26 and the York State 
Pruner are of this type. 

The tapered pruning saws are adapted to the general work 
of pruning in both the orchard and the shade trees. Ten dif- 
ferent patterns are offered. 

A type of saw designed to cut when drawing the saw toward 
you is much used in grape pruning. These saws have curved 
blades and are made in seven patterns. One of these has a 
folding handle which permits the saw to be carried easily in 
the pocket. 

The writer does not advise the use of the double-edged pruning 
saw, but for those who demand such a tool, a choice of five 
patterns is offered. Illustrations of these saws may be found 
in the general catalog. 

The Disston Hedge Shears are designed for the trimming of 
the privet and similar hedges. 

The hand shear is one of the most important tools used in 
the work of pruning. 



98 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



'^LITTLE GIANT" 

PRUNING HOOK AND 

SAW 

Simple and Durable 

The Knife and Saw are both made of 
Disston Steel. The tool is strong and 
durable. The Saw may be detached when 
its use is not required for cutting large limbs. 

This Pruner fills a long-felt need, as it 
combines two useful tools in one, without 
increase of cost to the user. 

The Saw-blade is attached to the Hook by 
means of two clamp-screws, as shown in the 
accompanying illustrations, which also show 
the method of attaching a Pole or Handle. 
We also make a Pruning Hook of this style 
without the Saw Attachment. 



IMPROVED PRUNING SAW AND KNIFE 
No. 20 





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This Saw is designed for attachment to a pole, so that the upper branches 
of trees can be reached without the aid of a ladder. Either the Knife or Saw 
may be used as required. When desired, the Pole can be detached; the socket 

on the Frame forms an excellent handle. 

■«» 

The peculiar formation of the Tooth enables the Saw to cut both ways, 
causes an equal strain on the limb being cut, insures smooth and rapid cutting, 
and prevents the saw from becoming jamftied in cutting green wood. Length 
of saw, 10 inches. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



"THE ORCHARD" PRUNING HOOK 
AND SAW 



This tool meets general requirements. 
The economy of combining two tools in 
one will be appreciated. 

The Knife and Saw are made of Diss- 
ton Steel, and can be used with or with- 
out a pole. Although possessing great 
strength, the tool is of light construction, 
with crescent shaped blade, which has 
long, slender teeth, so formed as1;o draw 
the saw into the wood. It is particularly 

adapted for sawing the smaller branches 

in general pruning. 

The Saw Blade, which is attached to 

the Hook by two clamp-screws, can be 

removed when the Hook only is required. 

We can furnish this style of Pruning 

Hook without the Saw attachment if so 

desired. 

Malleable iron handle, Japanned, with 

socket. 




No. Ill PRUNING SAW 




Similar in quality and style to "The Orchard," without Pruning Hook.^ 
Malleable iron handle, Japanned, with socket. Disston Steel, crescent- 
shaped blade, 10 inches in length; long, slender teeth. 

The blade is fastened to handle with wing-nut and so arranged that it may 
be adjusted to any angle. Can be used with or without a pole. 



100 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



DISSTON TABLE AND PRUNING SAW, No. 7 




Disston Steel, Grained Blade, Warranted, Apple Handle, Polished Edge, 
Brass Screws. 



BROWN'S TABLE AND PRUNING SAW, No. 3 




Grained Blade, Apple Handle, Polished Edge, Brass Screws. 



YORK STATE PRUNER 




Beech Handle, Varnished Edges, Brass Screws, Narrow Steel Blade, Blued. 
Length of Blade, 20 inches; five inches wide at butt, one inch at point. 
Toothed seven points to the inch. 



GRAPE PRUNER 




Hardwood, Open Grip Handle, Brass Screws, Disston Steel Blade, 103^ 
inches long, 1% inches wide at butt, % inch at point. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



101 



TAPERED PRUNING SAWS 

Polished Steel Frames, Disston Steel Blades, Hardwood Handles. These 
are specially desirable Pruning Saws, the shape of Frame permitting their 
use in narrow spaces. 14-inch Blades. 

POMONA, No. 8 




DOUBLE SWIVEL, No. 9 

Adjustable Blade. 




♦'THE FOREST," No. 10 

Without Pole. Socket Handle, Adjustable Blade. 




CLIMAX, No. 12 

Adjustable Blade. 




PACIFIC COAST, No. 15 




1012 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



TAPERED PRUNING SAWS 

No. 16 




-_>■ 



...„..,.„Ui-J'- J 



Flat steel back, narrow tapered point, Beech handle, two nickel-plated 
screws. Handle has extra large grip for use in gloved hand. Swivel stretcher. 
Blued steel blade, 14 inches long. 

No. 17 




Oval steel back, straight tapered point, Beech handle, three nickel-plated 
screws. Handle has extra large grip for use in gloved hand. Blued steel 
blade, 20 inches long. 

NEW YORK PATTERN, No. 18 




Flat steel back, narrow tapered point. Beech handle, three brass screws. 
Handle has extra large hand-hold for use in gloved hand. Blued steel blade, 
18 H inches long. 

No. 19 




Flat steel back, narrow tapered point, Beech handle, three brass screws. 
Handle has extra large hand-hold for use in gloved hand. Swivel stretcher 
blued steel blade, 18 inches long. 

No. 25 




Flat steel frame, slightly tapered, riveted sockets, swivel stretcher. Beech 
handle, two nickel-plated screws. Blued steel blade. Length 14 inches centre 
to centre of holes. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



103 



PRUNING SAWS 

CALIFORNIA, No. 50 




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^S 



No. 51 



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Curved Beech handle, 3 brass screws. Crescent-shaped Disston Steel 
Blade, slender teeth similar to the "Orchard" Pruner. Made with 12-inch 
blade only. 

No. 52 




Straight Beech handle, 3 brass screws. Crescent-shaped Disston Stee 
Blade. 

ADELAIDE, No. 60 



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,,i-*^''' 




PRUNING SAW, No. 61 




Special shaped, Disston steel blade, teeth arranged to cut on the draw- 
stroke; comfortably shaped handle; two screws. Made with 12, 14, and lb 
inch blades. 



104 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



PRUNING SAWS 

No. 7H 




Similar to the No. 7 Ship Pattern Handsaw, with the exception of extra 
large hand-hold for use in gloved hand, slightly heavier blade, and coarser 
teeth for pruning. 

No. D-24 




.>..,,,., v>v..vvv^,^v>vvvvv .J 

Narrow Point Disston Steel Blade, Copper Handle with Beechwood Grip. 

No. D-26 




Similar to the No. D-20 Handsaw, with the exception of extra large hand- 
hold for use in gloved hand, slightly heavier blade, and coarser teeth for 
pruning. The 26-inch is fitted with five brass screws; 24-inch, and smaller, 
with four brass screws. 

ADJUSTABLE POLE PRUNER, No. 11 

Without Pole. 



-- n 



CZZZ" 



Adapted for sawing by hand or attached to a pole. The Handle is made of 
malleable iron, with socket, and the Blade of Disston Steel. Adjustable for 
sawing at different angles. 



THE PRUNING BOOK 



105 



FOLDING PRUNING SAW, No. 38 




Length when open, 16^4 inches. Length when folded, 12^ inches. 

This Saw is designed to meet the demand for a Pruning Saw which can be 
carried easily in the pocket. The crescent-shaped blade, 10 inches long, is of 
well-tempered Disston-made Steel. The teeth, long and slender, are specially 
formed to draw the saw into the wood, easily making a clean cut. The saw 
cuts on the draw stroke. The handle is of hardwood, shaped to give a com- 
fortable, firm grip, with a slot near the end to accommodate blade when 
folded. 



DISSTON HEDGE SHEARS, No. 101 




LADIES' PATTERN HEDGE SHEARS, No. 1 




Blades 6K inches long. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



000 934 499 8 



